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The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.
Backstrap looms, as the name implies, are tied around the weaver's waist on one end and around a stationary object such as a tree, post, or door on the other. Tension can be adjusted simply by leaning back. Backstrap looms are very portable, since they can simply be rolled up and carried.
baize
Baize is a coarse woollen or cotton cloth, often coloured red or green.
ballistic nylon
Ballistic nylon is a thick, tough synthetic fabric used for a variety of applications.
balloon
The Balloon (textile) is an oscillation pattern of the yarn while unwinding from the bobbin due to centrifugal forces.
barathea
Barathea is an indistinct twill or broken rib – usually a twilled hopsack weave – with a fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Often of silk or silk blended with wool, used for neckties, women's fine suits and coats, men's and women's evening wear.
batik
Batik is an Indonesian traditional word and refers to a generic wax-resist dyeing technique used on fabric.
Bedford cord
Bedford cord is a combination of two kinds of weave, namely plain and drill. It is a durable fabric that is often used in upholstery or outerwear.
bias
The bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other.
binding
In sewing, binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing a seam or hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing then stitching on an edging or trim.
blend
A blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber.
bobbin
A bobbin is a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which wire, yarn, thread or film is wound.
bobbin lace
Bobbin lace is a delicate lace that uses wound spools of thread (the bobbins) to weave together the shapes in the lace.
bobbinet
Bobbinet is a tulle netting with hexagonal shaped holes, traditionally used as a base for embroidery and lingerie.
bolt
A bolt is a standard commercial textile unit comprising a length of fabric rolled around a flat or tube. They come in widths ranging from 35-60 inches, while length varies based on type of material.[3]
bombazine
Bombazine is a fabric originally made of silk or silk and wool, and now also made of cotton and wool or of wool alone. It is twilled or corded and used for dress-material.
braid
To braid is to interweave or twine three or more separate strands of one or more materials in a diagonally overlapping pattern.
Brocade is a fabric where the patterns are woven with a supplementary weft.
broella
Broella, from Old French:brouelle, is a type of coarse fabric that was commonly used for the everyday attire of both peasants and the monastic clergy during the Middle Ages.[4][5][6]
buckram
Buckram is a stiff cloth, made of cotton or linen, which is used to cover, and protect, a book, and although more expensive than its lookalike, Brella, is stronger and resistant to cockroaches eating it. Buckram can also be used to stiffen clothes.
burlap
Burlap is a North American term for a type of cloth often used for sacks. In the UK the equivalent nomenclature is Hessian.
Calico is a type of fabric made from unbleached, and often not fully processed, cotton. Also refers to a type of printing.
cambric
Cambric is a lightweight cotton cloth used as fabric for lace and needlework.
camel's hair
Camel's hair is a natural fiber from the camel. Camel hair can produce a variety of different coarseness of yarn. This fiber is a novelty fiber spun by hand-spinners.
canvas
Canvas is an extremely heavy-duty fabric used for making sails, tents, marquees, and other functions where sturdiness is required. It is also popularly used on fashion handbags.
Cotton is a soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to the tropical and subtropical regions of both the Old World and the New World. The fiber is most often spun into thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile.
cotton duck
Cotton duck, sometimes known as duck cloth, or simply duck, is a heavy, plain woven cotton fabric similar to canvas. It is more tightly woven than canvas and is used in a variety of applications where durability and a certain degree of water resistance is preferred.
crash
Crash is a rough fabric made from yarns that are usually undyed. The coarsest type is called Russian crash. Linen is generally used for the warp yarn, while linen and jute are used for the filler.
crepe
Crepe is a silk fabric of a gauzy texture, having a peculiar crisp or crimpy appearance.
Crochet is the process of creating fabric from a length of cord, yarn, or thread with a hooked tool.
crochet hook
A crochet hook is a type of needle, usually with a hook at one end, used to draw thread through knotted loops.
cro-hook
The cro-hook is a special double-ended crochet hook used to make double-sided crochet. Because the hook has two ends, two colours of thread can be handled at once and freely interchanged.
Damask is a fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving. Today, it generally denotes a linen texture richly figured in the weaving with flowers, fruit, forms of animal life, and other types of ornament.
darning mushroom
A darning mushroom is a tool which can be used for darning clothes, particularly socks. The sock can be stretched over the top of the (curved) mushroom, and gathered tightly around the stalk.
Dimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabric having at least two warp threads thrown into relief to form fine cords.
dobby loom
A dobby loom is a loom in which each harness can be manipulated individually. This is in contrast to a treadle loom, where the harnesses are attached to a number of different treadles depending on the weave structure.
double weave
Double weave is a type of advanced weave. It is done by interlacing two or more sets of warps with two or more sets of filling yarns.
dowlas
Dowlas is the name given to a plain cloth, similar to sheeting, but usually coarser.
The dye lot is a number that identifies yarns dyed in the same vat at the same time. Subtle differences can appear between different batches of the same color yarn from the same manufacturer.
Eisengarn, meaning "iron yarn" in English, is a light-reflecting, strong, waxed-cotton thread. It is made by soaking cotton threads in a starch, paraffin wax solution. The threads are then stretched and polished. The end result of the process is a lustrous, tear-resistant yarn which is extremely hardwearing.[7][8] Invented in the 19th Century, it was further developed in 1927 by the textile designer Margaretha Reichardt at the Bauhaus for use on Marcel Breuer's tubular-steel chairs.[9][10]
Embroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework in which designs and pictures are created by stitching strands of some material on to a layer of another material. See also: machine embroidery.
ends per inch (EPI)
Ends per inch like threads per inch is a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric, displaying the number of (warp) threads per inch of woven fabric.
epinglé fabric
A type of velvet fabric woven on a wire loom or épinglé loom. The épinglé velvet is notable in that both a loop pile and a cut pile can be integrated into the same fabric. The art of épinglé weaving in Europe originated from Lucca (Italy) and later came to Venice and Genua, which is where the term Genua velvet comes from. The technique of épinglé weaving is still used today in the Flemish region of Kortrijk and Waregem. The fabric finds it application mostly in upholstery, although in medieval times it was used as apparel for princes and kings as well as for bishops, cardinals, and the Pope.
epinglé loom
A kind of weaving machine whereby steel rods are inserted in a top shed which is formed over the bottom shed in which the weft is inserted. The steel rods are inserted into the fabric every second or third pick by a separate mechanism that is synchronised with the weaving motion. The same mechanism also extracts the rods from the fabric. If the rod carries a cutting blade at the tip the warps that are woven over the rods are cut, creating a cut pile effect. In case the rod has no blade, then the warp ends from a loop pile. Alternating cut and loop wires create cut and loop pile in the fabric. This weaving technology is used for weaving velvets for furnishing and apparel applications. These fabrics are known as 'moquette' or "épinglé' fabrics. This kind of weaving machine is also used for weaving carpets where it is known as a 'Wilton loom'.
even-weave
Even-weave or evenweave fabric is used in counted-thread embroidery and is characterized by Warp and weft threads of the same size.
eyelet
Grommets and eyelets are metal, plastic, or rubber rings that are inserted into a hole made through another material. They may be used to reinforce the hole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the hole, or both.
Fiber is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials. They can be spun into filaments, thread, or rope. They can be used as a component of composite materials. They can also be matted into sheets to make products such as paper or felt.
filament
A filament is a fine, thinly spun thread, fiber, or wire.
filling
See Weft
finishing
Finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile.[11]
fishnet
Fishnet is a material with an open, diamond shaped knit.
flannel
Flannel is a cloth that is commonly used to make clothing and bedsheets. It is usually made from either wool, wool and cotton, or wool and synthetic fabric.
flax
Flax fiber is soft, lustrous and flexible. It is stronger than cotton fiber but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fabrics such as damasks, lace and sheeting. Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of twine and rope.
frieze
Frieze is a coarse woollen cloth with a nap on one side, that was raised by scrubbing it to raise curls of fiber (French: frisé). In the 19th century rough cheap frieze was made of wool mixed with shoddy (see Shoddy).
fulling
Fulling is a step in clothmaking which involves the cleansing of cloth (particularly wool) to get rid of oils, dirt, and other impurities.
fustian
Fustian is a type of heavy twilled woven cotton fabrics, chiefly prepared for menswear. Usually dyed in a dark shade. Declined in popularity from 1813, being replaced by harder wearing and better quality wool cloths.
Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric often used to make suits, overcoats and trousers. The fiber used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted (a woolen yarn), but may also be cotton, synthetic or mixed. The fabric is smooth on one side and has a diagonally ribbed surface on the other.
gauge
A gauge is a set number of rows per inch (in knitting) or the thread-count of a woven fabric that helps the knitter determine whether they have the right size knitting needles or a weaver if the cloth is tight enough.
ganté
Ganté is a cloth made from cotton or tow warp and jute weft. It is largely used for bags for sugar and similar material, and has the appearance of a fine hessian cloth.[12]
A type of velvet where in Jacquard patterns are woven into the ground fabric and where the pile is made of a combination of cut and uncut (loop) pile. This fabric is also known as Venetian velvet, or more generally, as épinglé velvet. In the actual terminology of furnishing fabrics it is mostly named with its French name velours de Gênes.
This kind of fabric is made on a wire loom or épinglé loom.
The hand of a fabric is how it feels to the touch.[14]
heddle
A heddle is a common loom component, used to separate warp threads for passage of the weft. Commonly made of cord or wire.
hem
1. To hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel.
2. The edge of cloth hemmed in this manner.
hemp
The main uses of hemp fiber are rope, sacking, carpet, nets and webbing. Hemp is also being used in increasing quantities in paper manufacturing. The cellulose content is about 70%.
huckaback
Huckaback is a type of coarse absorbent cotton or linen fabric used for making towels.[15]
Ikat is a style of weaving that uses a tie-dye process on either the warp or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. A double ikat is when both the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving.
imberline
Imberline is a woven fabric with various colored stripes in the warp, often separated by gold thread. The fabric is often used in upholstery and drapery manufacture.
intarsia
Intarsia is a knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours.
interfacing
A type of material used on the unseen or "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing.
2. The attachment for a hand loom or power loom that allows warp threads to be individually controlled. This enables the production of Jacquard fabric.
Jacquard loom
The Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punched cards. It uses punched cards to control the pattern being woven. It is a form of dobby loom, where individual harnesses can be raised and lowered independently.
Jute is a long, soft, shiny plant fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibers, and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibers are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin.
Knitting is the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops.
knit fabrics
Knit fabrics are fabrics that were produced through the process of knitting.
knitting needle gauge
A knitting needle gauge is used to determine the size of a knitting needle. Some also double for crochet hooks. Most needles come with the size written on the needle, but many needles (like double-pointed needles) tend to not be labeled. Also, with wear and time the label often wears off.
Needle gauges can be made of any material, and are often made for metal and plastic. They tend to be about 3 by 5 inches. They contain holes of various sizes, and often have a ruler along the edge for determining the gauge of a sample.
The creation of lace is an ancient craft. A lace fabric is lightweight openwork fabric, patterned, either by machine or by hand, with open holes in the work. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often lace is built up from a single thread and the open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric.
lamé
Lamé is a type of brocaded clothing fabric with inwoven metal threads, typically of gold or silver, giving it a metallic sheen.
Linen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linens are fabric household goods, such as pillowcases and towels, many of which were historically made from linen cloth.
Loden is water-resistant material for clothing made from sheep wool.
loft
An indication of thickness of a textile when not under compression. High loft implies that the fabric contains more air than fibres, has a low overall density and is likely to be a good insulator due to a large volume of constrained air.
Lucet is a method of cordmaking or braiding which is believed to date back to the Viking Age. Lucet cord is square, strong, and slightly springy. It closely resembles knitted I-cord or the cord produced on a knitting spool. Lucet cord is formed by a series of loops, and will therefore unravel if cut.
Macramé (also macrame) is a form of textile-making using knotting rather than weaving or knitting. Its primary knots are the square knot and forms of hitching (full hitch and double half hitches).
mercerized cotton
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance.
merino
Merino is the Spanish name for a breed of sheep, and hence applied to a woolen fabric.
mesh
A mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weaved pieces. In clothing, a mesh is often defined as fabric that has a large number of closely spaced holes, such as is common practice for modern sports jerseys.
metallic fiber
Metallic fibers are fibers used in textiles which are either composed of metal, or fibers of other materials with a metal coating.
Their uses include decoration and the reduction of static electricity.
Microfiber
Fibers with strands thinner than one denier. Fabrics made with microfibers are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well.
millinery
1. Millinery the profession or business of designing, making, or selling hats for women.
2. Women's hats and other articles sold by a milliner.
Mohair is a silk-like fabric made from the hair of the Angora goat. It is durable, light and warm, although some people find it uncomfortably itchy.
mungo
Fibrous woollen material generated from waste fabric, particularly tightly woven cloths and rags. See also shoddy.
muslin
Muslin is a type of finely woven cotton fabric, introduced to Europe from the Middle East in the 17th century. It was named for the city where it was first made, Mosul in what is now Iraq.
